Fashion week starts again at New York City for SS15. As the world set their sights on the four biggest fashion capitals (New York, London, Paris and Milan) we’re looking at the other fashion weeks that have already set the trend for next season – Berlin, Stockholm and Copenhagen. We did warn you readers that the length of this post was going to be huge. Having said that, we’re giving you a visual hot ticket.
Want to know the trends? Please continue to read.
Berlin Fashion Week
First stop is Berlin. Over 5o labels showcased at this years Fashion Week. The media buzz here was seeing the international acclaimed superstar Rita Ora in attendance.
We celebrate the favourite designers hailing from Germany with the major trends that’ll be setting our wardrobes into a revamp in next year’s SS15.
Sportswear has been always in the heart of Spring/Summer; whatever and however designers edit or change our love-hate relationship with all things physical. In Berlin, designers have updated the term. If not sportswear, how about surfwear? Taking from Berlin’s finest Vladimir Karaleev. Still, whether its cycling shorts, neonprene or all things mesh, designers are thinking outside the box to add a new flair to common sport materials and basics. Maybe associate it with aesthetics, maybe layer it with more see-through sheer (Lala Berlin, Isabell de Hillerin). Perhaps have clean feminine lines that would allow our lady to wear heels to give it the casual-sexy-cool (Hier Le, Dorothee Schumacher, Michalsky and Riani).
Isabell de Hillerin
Regardless of the active theme of sport, Berlin still fell for the love of the feminine. With the big trend of lace seen on the catwalks of Frieda Weyer, Augustine Teboul, Riani and Malaika Raiss.
A big colour trend to take from Berlin is the orange. Designers such as Malaika Raiss opted for the bold summer bright for her suit. Hien Le with his collection more feminine lightened the primary colour to more of a pastel orange.
Speaking of pastels, the array of soft pinks, blues and icy yellows were in full swing at the catwalks of Marina HÖRMANSEDER, Perret Schaad, Lala Berlin, Riani, Frida Weyer and Isabell de Hillerin. Some using more of the sugar candy palette than others. However, the only colour that displays the beauty of a woman was pastel pink. The German love for the colour is a romantic-renaissance.
The experimentation of draping is what creates the silhouette to be clean. That’s the rule in Berlin. If you want to drape, you must have a clean minimal way of doing it. The correct term is node-draping.
Apart from these few trends mentioned, the overall tonne Berlin has set for SS15 is minimalism. Minimalism has been applied to everything from the ladylike dresses to the masculine-feminism suits. The suits featured at the catwalks of Malaika Raiss and Michalsky are clean. With a strong presence of sheer along the way. So whether you’re unsure to wear a baggy sweatshirt with a feminine lace skirt or prefer to give the casual tracksuit slim tracksuit joggers some sass with open-courts mules, strap courts or very low ankle boots, Berlin’s given you the approval.
Stockholm Fashion Week
30 of the best fashion labels invaded Sweden’s capital. In the fashion world, this city’s underrated. Notwithstanding, the city subliminally has fashion that breaks boundaries, without taking out the minimalism that the Swedish fashion scene love.
Don’t get what we mean? Let’s us explain for you.
Back is a common brand in Sweden. Without the common trademarks of the name printed on their fabrics, the brand decided to use subliminal safety pins as the finishing touches to an outfit.
The make-up featured on Caroline Kummelstedt SS15 is parallel to the sophisticated silhouette. The long and high ponytails as well as the black circles around the eyebrows and eyes.
Sportwear brand Bjorn Borg had its models wear dolled face masks as they walked as living action figures and sports dolls on the catwalk. The masks made them to become living perfect avatars that seen in video games.
Cheap Monday allowed the models to have a splash at the end of the runway.
Lunar space helmets were spotted on the models at Isabella Yalda Hellysaz.
Skirts with trousers was experimented with the Swedish designers. Cheap Monday, Back, Diana Orving, Deita, Carin Wester…
The trousers are wider this year. From ever flowing in linen to being slimed with a disco pant fit (Ida Sjöstedt). Some designers featured a skirt-trouser combo. Carin Wester went further out of the box to introduce to the world a tredel-suit (an all one skirt, trouser and jacket) Others, took risks such as House of Dagmar; who styled slim leather trousers under an ankle height dress. The all-in-one pants and skirt trend has been styled with jackets, long tee-shirts and blouses.
WhyRed featured a skirt trouser that can be illusioned to be a skirt. HunkyDory on the other hand added high splits to relax the piece.
The trend is not unfashionable in Stockholm. In some weird way, the designers have made the style very sophisticated for the highly feminine female. It’s up to her whether she wants to wear some strong heels (Carin Wester), platforms or flats.
Monochrome is always in the heart of Stockholm. In the wake of Spring/Summer 15, the common palette was extended as designers such as House of Dagmar, Carin Wester and Army of Me added lighter grey tonnes in their collections. So it’s isn’t the common black-and-white that we always see. In fact, white is the overall leader (HunkyDory, Deita, Carin Wester, Menckel and Minna Palmqvist).
Designers such as Bjorn Borg and Army of me sported some prints to even out their monochrome palette. Other designers added a splash of brights that can be caught for a split second (Deita, WhyRed and Menckel).
Besides the monochrome, Swedish fashion has given you another option — neutrals. Carin Wester, Filippa K, J.Lindeberg, Menckel and Back added additional colours of dark blues, nudes and surprisingly, pinks and yellows.
When it comes to mixing and layering fabrics, Stockholm is the expert. Many designers have styled tough fabrics with soft in order to soften the silhouette. The common layering combinations include silk with denim and cashmere, linen with suede and pvc with chiffon. Just to name a few. The mixing and matching different fabrics has opened the door for designers to express new styles and combinations; keeping the balance of being edgy without the flamboyance.
We guess in Stockholm that they can actually do without the jewellery and crazy colours. The exposure of high heels were balanced with an equal amount of slip-on sandals, trainers and canvases. We never seen such array of flat footwear that looked so good. The hottest dream is the forward thinking of Wester creating high-leg boots with rartan. In additional to associating flashes of sequins with day wear (Mechkel and HunkyDory). Important silhouettes for next season is the emphasis of a women’s waist. Whether it’s through a belt or tying a outwear piece or tee-shirt. The Swedish girl is more boxier with minimal elements and cuts that are associated with sportwear. Nevertheless, she’s still true to her feminine self with her bare shoulders, strong slits showing emphasis to the legs, sheer and of course, oversize clutches (Caroline Kummelstedt).
Copenhagen Fashion Week
Our final stop, Copenhagen.
Denmark’s designers have become cunningly clever with certain sport pieces; from the mesh to the cycling shorts. Sportswear has become the source of completing work, evening and day looks — besides the common casual. Sophisticated mesh jackets and sweat tops were spotted at Baum un Pferdengarten. Stasia/Lace Stastia used lace materials for common sport elements such as the tracksuit. Maikel Tawadros took elements of the traditional American football uniform and created fur knee and elbow pads as well as the the sweatshirt. Designkloen Kolding on the other hand, took the clean lines seen on the American football uniform and reexamined drawstring tracksuits. Wali Mohammed Barrech he created trainer sandals slip-ons, with vest tops and cycling shorts styled with see through track suits. The Ganni catwalk SS15 show was done on a tennis court! Other designers using sports inspiration are Stine Ladeforged and Veronica B Vallenes. The use of sequins with ‘sophisticated sportwear’ is emerging popular. Something that Swedish designer Menckel and Berlin’s Michalsky also did.
Baum und Pferdgarten
Wali Mohammed Barrech
Edith & Ella by Line Markvardesen
Monochrome is proving an hit-wonder in Demark. It’s battle against the ensembles. Which one do you prefer?
All white everything (Peter Andersen)…?
Lahti Institute of Design and Fine Arts
Or all black (MI-NO-RO and David Andersen)?
Regardless of your undecided decision of the all one-colour-ensemble, designers across the board are experimenting with different prints and patterns. You can pick and mix your monochrome print fancy. Otherwise, the main key here is the layering of different materials (Lahti Institute of Design and Fine Arts, Peter Andersen).
Abstract graphics. These prints represent the evolution of contemporary modern art such as maxjenny!’s kaleidoscopic-digital-pixelated prints and Edith & Ella by Line Markvardesen’s elegant printed leggings and bomber jackets. Whatever the piece, abstract graphics is on it — and many designers have gone all out. From the shapes at Hernik Vibskov to the cool graphics to all things tropical (with flamingos) at Nicholas Nybro.
Is it possible to wear an all abstract print assemble without looking too flamboyant? It depends on how you look at it. Unlike Swedish and Berlin, Copenhagen’s designers enjoy taking risks in Scadanavian fashion. It’s very difficult to collaborate similar prints together into one silhouette. Many fashionistas would’ve washed the flamboyancy down by adding a black or white piece. That conformity rule is out next season. So go on fashionistas, paint your environment with an all out colour/graphic parade.
Edith & Ella by Line Markvardesen
Freya Dalsjø and Margrethe-Skolen
Marimekko & maxjenny!
Alongside the wide pants trend, long shorts are an emerging from Lovechild 1979, Ganni, and Mark Kenly Domino Tan. The House of Dagmar at Stockholm is among the few Swedish designers to sport this trend.
Mark Kenly Domino Tan
The love for florals is still an essential.
Baum und Pferdgarten
Edith & Ella by Line Markvardsen
That’s our first part of Spring/Summer trends. We hope you have taster of what to expect from the next season so far. Despite these fashion weeks not rated by the fashion media, these designers (and their creations) are the hidden treasures place in the heart of Scandinavian fashion.